[A2k] AP: Europe wants its Parmesan back, seeks name change

Thiru Balasubramaniam thiru at keionline.org
Tue Mar 11 14:12:21 PDT 2014


http://m.apnews.com/ap/db_289563/contentdetail.htm?contentguid=ha3PBpNS
Europe wants its Parmesan back, seeks name change

MARY CLARE JALONICK
Published: 21 minutes ago

WASHINGTON (AP) - Would Parmesan by any other name be as tasty atop your
pasta? A ripening trade battle might put that to the test.

As part of trade talks, the European Union wants to ban the use of European
names like Parmesan, feta and Gorgonzola on cheese made in the United
States.

The argument is that the American-made cheeses are shadows of the original
European varieties and cut into sales and identity of the European cheeses.
The Europeans say Parmesan should only come from Parma, Italy, not those
familiar green cylinders that American companies sell. Feta should only be
from Greece, even though feta isn't a place. The EU argues it "is so
closely connected to Greece as to be identified as an inherently Greek
product."

So, a little "hard-grated cheese" for your pasta? It doesn't have quite the
same ring as Parmesan.

U.S. dairy producers, cheesemakers and food companies are all fighting the
idea, which they say would hurt the $4 billion domestic cheese industry and
endlessly confuse consumers.

"It's really stunning that the Europeans are trying to claw back products
made popular in other countries," says Jim Mulhern, president of the
National Milk Producers Federation, which represents U.S. dairy farmers.

The European Union would not say exactly what it is proposing or even
whether it will be discussed this week as a new round of talks on an
EU-United States free trade agreement opens in Brussels.

European Commission spokesman Roger Waite would only say that the question
"is an important issue for the EU."

That's clear from recent agreements with Canada and Central America, where
certain cheese names were restricted unless the cheese came from Europe.
Under the Canadian agreement, for example, new feta products manufactured
in Canada can only be marketed as feta-like or feta-style, and they can't
use Greek letters or other symbols that evoke Greece.

Though they have not laid out a public proposal, the EU is expected to make
similar attempts to restrict marketing of U.S.-made cheeses, possibly
including Parmesan, Asiago, Gorgonzola, feta, fontina, grana, Muenster,
Neufchatel and Romano.

And it may not be just cheese. Other products could include bologna, Black
Forest ham, Greek yogurt, Valencia oranges and prosciutto, among other
foods.

The trade negotiations are important for the EU as Europe has tried to
protect its share of agricultural exports and pull itself out of recession.
The ability to exclusively sell some of the continent's most famous and
traditional products would prevent others from cutting into those markets.

Concerned about the possible impact of changing the label on those popular
foods, a bipartisan group of 55 senators wrote U.S. Trade Representative
Michael Froman and Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack this week asking them
not to agree to any such proposals by the EU.

Led by New York Sen. Charles Schumer, D-N.Y., and Pennsylvania Sen. Patrick
Toomey, R-Pa., the members wrote that in the states they represent, "many
small- or medium-sized, family owned businesses could have their businesses
unfairly restricted" and that export businesses could be gravely hurt.

Schumer said artisanal cheese production is a growing industry across New
York.

"Muenster is Muenster, no matter how you slice it," he said.

Large food companies that mass-produce the cheeses are also fighting the
idea. Kraft, closely identified with its grated Parmesan cheese, says the
cheese names have long been considered generic in the United States.

"Such restrictions could not only be costly to food makers, but also
potentially confusing for consumers if the labels of their favorite
products using these generic names were required to change," says Kraft
spokesman Basil Maglaris.

Some producers say they are incensed because it was Europeans who
originally brought the cheeses here, and the American companies have made
them more popular and profitable in a huge market. Errico Auricchio,
president of the Green Bay, Wis., company BelGioioso Cheese Inc., produced
cheese with his family in Italy until he brought his trade to the United
States in 1979.

"We have invested years and years making these cheeses," Auricchio says.
"You cannot stop the spreading of culture, especially in the global
economy."

He says that companies who make certain cheeses would have to come together
and figure out new names for them, which would be almost impossible to do.

His suggestion for Parmesan? "I Can't Believe It's Not Parmesan," he jokes.

Jaime Castaneda works for the U.S. Dairy Export Council and is the director
of a group formed to fight the EU changes, the Consortium for Common Food
Names. He says the idea that only great cheese can come from Europe "is
just not the case anymore."

He points out that artisanal and locally produced foods are more popular
than ever here and says some consumers may actually prefer the American
brands. European producers can still lay claim to more place-specific
names, like Parmigiano-Reggiano, he says.

"This is about rural America and jobs," he said.



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